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Things that raise your pay

• Bread specialism

  Real sourdough and viennoiserie skills are scarce. Bakeries fight over people who can run a levain.

• Chocolate and sugar work

  Tempering, bonbons, showpieces. This is what gets you into hotels and competitions.

• Professional certification

  The American Culinary Federation runs a voluntary ladder of pastry credentials, from entry level up to executive pastry chef. Not required, but it travels.

• Costing and ordering

  A pastry chef who can hold a food cost percentage gets promoted ahead of one who only bakes well.